Pick whatever you like at Botschaft in Nørrebro — Copenhagen’s beacon of modern German and Austrian cuisine dares to write a history of its own

Who knew schnitzel and goulash could feel this provocative? At Botschaft, founders Jonas Keller and Jan Hugel challenge tradition and dare to do something different. Together with Head Chef Lenny Hochhauser, they serve the Alpine comforts of their youth with a playful edge and a helping of caviar.

Here, classics are reshaped with a modern hand. Maultasche, a plump pork dumpling, rests in rich onion broth with brown butter. Crisp rösti wears a crown of caviar and crème fraîche. History slips into a roasted poussin, served with jus and split to reveal a veal farce and egg filling. Venison goulash comes slow-cooked and tender, spooned over buttered spätzle with lingonberry compote. Bee sting cake and kaiserschmarrn land sweetly, while curated wines and German beers carry the weight of butter, broth, and memory.

Nostalgia isn’t the destination in this rule-breaking dining room. It’s the starting line.